First of, thanks to Elinore for letting me use Malifaux.se as a home for my malifaux-related painting tutorials.
Here is my step by step Necrotic skin and simple rust guide previously posted on the excellent podcast FauxHios homepage.
For this guide I’ve used the following colors and brushes:
Necrotic Flesh (Army Painter)
Dark tone ink (Army Painter)
Plate Mail Metal (Army Painter)
Dark Fleshtone (Game Color line Vallejo)
Green Grey (Model Color Vallejo)
Ivory (model Color Vallejo)
Typhus Corrosion (Citadel Technical)
Blood for the Blood god (Citadel Technical)
Crimson Gore (Citadel)
Blazing Orange (Citadel)
Black Basecoat (Citadel Spray)
For brushes I’ve used a Large Brush, Dry, Stipple and Layer Brush from Citadel. I think fine detail brushes are often overrated. A well taken care of layer brush works for most fine detail work.
So we start this off with an assembled model. This guy is made out of resin mixed with some metal pieces. It’s not as heavy as it looks since its casted in resin. I pinned all parts together with copper wire for it to hold together better.
I start to apply Necrotic flesh with my bigger Citadel Dry brush. It’s a big model so a bigger brush saves a lot of time. This is done as fast as possible not caring much it we get green paint on parts that’s not suppose to be green, like the metal details. We will paint that over later of course. Just be sure that you don’t apply to much paint so that we miss out on details.
I like to work with Dark tone ink-Wash and something I’ve come up with is to pre-highlight before the wash is applied. This makes the model keep its tones together and the wash later hides the visible brushstrokes better. So I start high lightning with Necrotic Flesh mixed with Green grey.
As you can see I try to apply highlights as if the light is falling straight from above. This is something I always do when painting flesh and skin. It gives a much more realistic finish. Perhaps I’ll do a human skin guide later where I can show this better. This is not a very realistic model and perhaps not the best mini to showcase it.
Now we are done with the first steps of pre-highlighting and since our next step for the skin is to apply a Dark tone wash to create shades, contras and more definition we give the other parts of the model its base colors. In this case the metal and brown cloth on the models left leg. I also paint the skeleton parts and spikes brown for the moment. Ill talk abit more about the center-skeleton parts later.
I now apply Dark tone wash mixed out with some water. I try to apply this in a way where we don’t get to much excessive wash collected in pools. Unfortunately something came up with one of my sons when I was doing this so the work got a bit sloppy done as you can see on the models back. It’s very important to not let the wash dry before you are finished with the entire model. Make sure you use the brush to soak up excessive wash since when it dries the surface tension of a pool will make the wash dry unevenly creating rings and a very bad result.
I will focus a bit more on the models left arm for this guide. Here is a picture from after the wash has dried.
So now we start to apply highligts again and try to fix areas where I might have failed a bit with the wash. For this work I use Green Grey and Ivory. For the end result of the necrotic skin it’s important to get a good contrast between the shades and brightest highlights. The red watered down glaze we will apply later will react differently to the darker green, bright green and almost white highlights as you will se.
Now it’s time for the fun part where everything comes to life. I use a dark red color named Crimson Gore. This color is thin and does not cover well on black background so don’t use just any dark red color, use a thin one. Gws foundation-colors are a big no-no for this. I mix up the paint with a lot of water making it look milky and transparent. You can also mix red up with Vallejo Glaze Medium for a similar result. I’ve mostly used tap-water though.
I start to apply the wash both over the wounds and in random places on the skin. In the recesses the wash will blend with the dark-green and make a grey kind of finish. At the bright highlighted areas you will get a infected red/pinkish look, Just Like it’s bloated and about to burst. This process is very quick compared with what you have done so far so it’s good take your time anyway. It’s a very fun process where you see the fruit of your previous work.
I touch up a bit on the hightlights applying some white to give more contrast on the gory areas.
I love to paint gore and the GW-Techical color: Blood for the Blood God is amazing for this purpose. I start to apply a mix of BftBG and water where the wounds look the most ready to burst. On this model I use it quite vividly but with this color less is actually more. Try to mix it up a bit with water and don’t use too much. I’ve seen fine models totally ruined when the painter has got to excessive with this color. It’s easy to get carried away though.
I use a GW stipple brush to splash some bloodstains on the flesh. GW has an amazing guide for using Blood for the Blood god on their youtube channel where they show this technique in depth. You can splash bloodstains using an airbrush as well blowing air on a brush with paint on it aiming towards the model. What you are after are very small drops of red paint hitting the model in a realistic way. You can never get the same result by applying the paint with a brush directly.
Now it’s time for some Rusty Metal and or second part of this tutorial. As you can see on the picture above with the blood splashed on I’ve also washed the metal areas with a mix of dark fleshtone and water. Almost the same way as I did with crimson gore earlier. This will be our base foundation of heavier rust on the metal.
I love rust, it looks great, it gives a lot of atmosphere and realism to your model. And best of all its very simple and fast to do.
After I applied the brown watered down wash I go over the metal areas with Typhus Corrosion, Another excellent GW-paint that is both transparent and has small grains in it that will give a more weathered finish on the area you apply it on. The transparency of the color also lets the colors below shine through a bit. I use this color when I paint dirt and earth as well its really great for getting that gritty look that I think the world of Malifaux is all about.
The third and close to final step is to mix up the Corrosion paint with some orange (Blazing Orange) this is applied randomly over the rust to get more diversity and contrast. Real rust ranges from Brown to bright orange and even yellow. I recommend google searching on rust for some amazing and beautiful pictures of rust to use for inspiration.
The skeleton in the middle is a bit of a lackluster for this model. I want the focal points to be the infected gross wounds. The skeleton and the skull is more a decoration for this creature and not as important as a face of an ordinary miniature where you’re natural focal point will be. I toned down the skeleton parts. Kept them dark and dirty as it was some kind of old remains with no purpose that is stuck in this enormous creation of flesh and steel.
Here we are at end of our journey. The finished model. I made a simple base out of sand and kork. I Painted as the base of most of my newer models. I applied some Army painter Highland tuft to make the base a bit more interesting.
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and hopefully you learnt something new. This is a big model and it sure took some time to do this but applying these simple steps on normal sized miniatures does not take much time at all.